Fence Installation & Repair
Best Value Landscaping & Fencing installs and repairs residential fences across Thornton and Adams County, Colorado: cedar privacy, vinyl, chain link, ornamental iron, and split-rail, plus custom gates. Every post is set in concrete to frost-line depth and spaced for wind, so the run holds its line through a Colorado winter. Family-run out of north Thornton, licensed and insured, and the quote you sign is the price you pay. Free on-site estimates, usually within 48 hours.
Fences are how we got started and they're still our most-requested install. Every fence we build is permitted where required, locator-flagged, and inspected before we tear down. No leaning posts, no warped pickets, no surprises at the end.
Fence installation done to spec, every run
A standard residential fence install runs two days on site: demo and dig one day, set posts and let the concrete cure overnight, hang pickets or panels the next. Post depth and post spacing carry the whole thing. Every post goes 36 inches minimum into a 50-lb bag of concrete, 42 inches on a 6-foot privacy run, because the Front Range frost line sits at 30 to 36 inches and anything shallower heaves out of plumb the first hard winter. We space posts at 8 feet, not the 10 a lot of crews stretch to, so a 6-foot fence in a chinook doesn't act like a sail and walk the line. If your run tops 6 feet you'll need a permit, and we pull it on your behalf and call in locates before we dig. If your HOA needs an architectural review packet before you can break ground, we build the drawing and material list they ask for. We work out of our shop on Washington Street in north Thornton, and if you're in town, see our page on fence installation, repair & replacement in Thornton, CO for the neighborhood-by-neighborhood detail. Call (303) 915-8649 to get on the schedule.
Get a free fence estimateCedar privacy that holds its line
Premium #1 grade western red cedar pickets nailed with hot-dipped galvanized ring-shanks into pressure-treated rails. Posts are 4x4 cedar or pressure-treated set 36-42 inches deep in 50-lb bags of concrete — never tamped dirt. Top caps and 1x6 trim boards finish every run so the pickets aren't sitting in standing water.
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Vinyl and split-rail done the same way
UV-stable vinyl panels with steel-reinforced bottom rails for the long runs. Split-rail in 2-rail or 3-rail western red cedar with notched posts — not nailed butt joints that loosen. Whatever the material, the post-setting is the same: dig deep, pour concrete, let it cure 24 hours before anything hangs from it.
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Chain link and ornamental iron
Chain link is the budget-friendly, see-through option, and it's the right call for dog runs, back property lines, and utility areas where you want containment without blocking the view. We hang galvanized or vinyl-coated mesh on posts set in concrete to the same 36-42 inch depth as everything else, because a chain link fence that racks and leans is still a failed fence. Ornamental iron is the other end of the range: powder-coated steel or aluminum panels for decorative front-yard runs, pool-code enclosures, and the styles a lot of HOAs require out front. Iron posts get set in concrete to full depth too, and we handle the architectural review packet when the neighborhood asks for one. Whatever the material, we quote the ones on your short list side by side so you can see the trade-off in real numbers before you commit.
Get a free fence estimateFence repair, before you tear the whole thing out
Before you replace a whole fence, let us tell you whether you have to. Fence repair is worth a look when the posts are still sound and the damage is limited to pickets, rails, hardware, or a single leaning section. We reset leaning posts by pulling the old footing and re-pouring to full 36-42 inch depth, swap out warped or cracked pickets, replace rotted bottom rails, re-square dropped gates, and swap rusted hardware-store hinges for stainless or black-coated. A leaning post almost always traces back to a footing set too shallow or in tamped dirt instead of concrete, so freeze-thaw walked it out of plumb. Here's the honest cutoff we use on-site: if more than roughly a third of the posts are heaved, rotted at the base, or snapped, a section-by-section repair usually costs more over two years than a clean replacement, and we'll say so instead of nickel-and-diming a fence that's done. Text a photo or call (303) 915-8649 and we'll walk it with you before anyone quotes a tear-out.
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Custom gates that swing right ten years in
Cedar arbor gates, double drive gates, and pedestrian gates with mortised hinges and adjustable steel cross-bracing. We hang every gate before backfilling so the swing is true, then re-test after the concrete sets. Hardware: heavy-duty stainless or black-coated steel — never the bagged hardware-store kit that rusts the first winter.
Get a free fence estimateWhat we install — by name, not by allowance
Every estimate calls out brand and spec. No vague material lines that turn into a fight at install.
How a fencing project actually runs
Owner walk & written scope
The owner walks the property, measures, and asks what isn't working. You get a written scope with material specs by name — no allowance line items.
Design & selections
Layouts, material samples, and finish options reviewed in your space. Included in the project, not billed separately.
Permits & site prep
We pull the permit when one is required, protect existing surfaces, and prep the site. Surprises documented in writing before any change order.
Build with one crew
Same crew start to finish. Daily clean-up, dust control where needed, and a foreman you can text directly.
Walk-through & punch list
Written punch list signed by you. We don't take final payment until you sign off the walkthrough.
Ready to start your project?
Get a free fence estimateWhat moves the price on a fence
Fence pricing isn't just linear footage — it's the dig, the access, and the material grade.
- $Install vs. repair vs. replace
A section repair is priced by the post and panel; a full replacement adds demo and haul-off of the old run and footings.
- $Linear feet & height
6-foot privacy costs more per foot than 4-foot picket; runs over 200 feet usually drop the per-foot price.
- $Material
Chain link, cedar, vinyl, and ornamental iron span a wide range; we quote the ones on your short list side by side.
- $Demo & haul-off
Removing an old fence (especially with concrete footings) adds a half day to a day of crew time.
- $Slope, access & gates
Stair-stepping a fence on a sloped lot, tight backyard access, and each gate all add labor; double drive gates need diagonal bracing and heavier hinges.
Owner walks every fence estimate. Written, fixed price — no allowances.
Why post depth is the only thing that matters
Colorado's frost line on the Front Range sits between 30 and 36 inches. Anything shallower freezes, heaves, and walks the post out of plumb the first hard winter. We dig 36 inches minimum on 4-foot fences and 42 inches on 6-foot fences — and we set in concrete every time, not tamped dirt.
The other half is wind. Thornton sees 60+ mph gusts a few times a year. A 6-foot privacy fence on a windward run acts like a sail. Spacing posts at 8 feet (not 10), using 4x4 (not 4x3), and pouring 1.5–2 bags of concrete per post is what keeps the fence standing after a chinook.
Get a free fence estimateRecent fencing projects
Real homes, real scope, real craftsmanship — a snapshot of work delivered across the Denver metro.
Fencing across the Denver metro
Frequently Asked Questions
How deep are your fence posts?+
We dig to 36 inches minimum and prefer 42 inches on 6-foot fences along the Front Range. Every post is set in concrete.
Do you handle the permit?+
Yes — we pull the permit when the city or HOA requires one, and we call in locates for buried utilities before any digging starts.
How long does a typical fence install take?+
Most residential runs (under 200 feet) are demo and dig one day, set posts and let cure overnight, hang the fence the next day. Two days on site for most yards.
Cedar or vinyl — which lasts longer?+
Vinyl is essentially zero-maintenance and outlasts cedar by 5–10 years. Cedar looks better and costs less up front but needs a stain coat every 3–5 years to keep its color.
Will you remove the old fence?+
Yes. Demo and haul-off is a line item on the estimate so you know exactly what it costs.
Do you repair fences or only install new ones?+
Both. If the posts are sound and the damage is limited to pickets, rails, hardware, or one leaning section, fence repair is usually the smarter spend and we'll price it that way. If more than about a third of the posts are heaved, rotted, or snapped, a section-by-section repair tends to cost more over two years than a clean replacement, and we'll tell you that on-site instead of charging for a fix that only buys a season.
Do you install chain link and ornamental iron fencing?+
Yes. Chain link is the see-through, budget-friendly pick for dog runs, back property lines, and utility areas, and we set those posts in concrete to the same 36-42 inch depth as everything else. Ornamental iron is powder-coated steel or aluminum for decorative front-yard runs and pool-code enclosures, and it gets the same full-depth footings plus any HOA architectural review packet the neighborhood requires.
What materials do you build in?+
Cedar privacy, UV-stable vinyl, chain link, ornamental iron, and split-rail, plus custom gates in any of them. We match the material to the job rather than to whatever's on the truck, and we quote the ones on your short list side by side so the trade-off shows up in real numbers.
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Get a free fence estimate
One foreman, one written price, one schedule. Free on-site estimate from the owner.