Landscape Design & Installation
We design and install full backyard renovations — sod, mulch and rock beds, plantings, edging, and stone borders. Every job starts with grading the right way so water drains away from the house, not toward it.
Plant selections are picked for Thornton's high desert: native and adapted species that survive a Colorado summer without daily watering and a -10°F February without protection.
Grading first, plants second
Before a single rock or plant goes in, we re-grade the lot to slope a minimum of 6 inches over the first 10 feet away from the foundation. We add drainage tile or a French drain on lots where water naturally collects. This one step prevents the basement leaks and dead lawns that a pretty surface can't fix.
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Mulch and rock beds with real edging
Hardwood or cedar mulch over commercial-grade weed barrier, or 1.5" Colorado river rock for low-maintenance beds. Every bed is bordered with steel edging or natural stone — never the flimsy plastic strip that pops out of the ground by year two.
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Plant selections that survive Colorado
Native grasses (blue grama, buffalo grass), adapted perennials (Russian sage, gaillardia, salvia), drought-tolerant shrubs (sumac, currant, mountain mahogany), and ornamental trees that handle wind and dry air. We plant in fall or early spring whenever possible and water deeply twice a week the first season.
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Lawn aeration, overseeding & spring clean-ups
A thin, patchy lawn on the Front Range usually isn't dead, it's compacted and hungry. Our bentonite-heavy Adams County clay packs down hard over a winter, and once it does, water and air can't reach the roots, so the grass thins out no matter how much you run the sprinkler. Core aeration pulls plugs of that compacted soil so the lawn can breathe, and we time it for the spring or early-fall growth window, not the dead of a Colorado July when new grass cooks before it can root. Sometimes the thin lawn isn't compaction at all, it's a system that stopped watering evenly, so if a zone runs dry or heads spray the fence instead of the grass, our sprinkler repair and irrigation crew dials in the coverage before we bother aerating. We overseed a cool-season bluegrass or turf-type fescue blend right into the fresh aeration holes so the seed sits in soil contact instead of on top of thatch, then top-dress and get you on a watering schedule for establishment.
Get a free landscape estimateSeasonal resets, not weekly mow-and-blow
We also handle spring clean-ups, mulch top-offs, and plant replacements when something didn't make it through the winter. Straight talk on scope: we don't run a weekly maintenance crew, so we're not the mow-and-blow outfit that shows up every Friday. What we do is the seasonal work that resets a tired lawn, aerate, overseed, clean up, and swap dead plants, and then hand you a lawn that's healthy enough to keep. If your grass is only thin and patchy rather than gone, this is often the right call instead of a full tear-out and re-sod, and we'll say so on-site. Call (303) 915-8649 or request a free on-site estimate and we'll walk the lawn before we quote.
Get a free landscape estimateHydroseeding vs. sod vs. seed on Front Range clay
Three ways to put down a new lawn, and the right one depends on your grade, your budget, and how fast you need cover. Sod is instant: fresh-cut bluegrass laid within 24 hours gives you a finished lawn the same day, it's the most forgiving on a slope where loose seed would wash, and it's what we install most often here because it establishes fast and holds soil in place through our spring downbursts. The trade-off is cost, sod runs the most up front. Straight seed is the cheapest, but on bare clay it's slow and risky: the seed has to stay damp for weeks, and one hot, windy Thornton afternoon can dry the top layer and set you back. Hydroseeding splits the difference, a slurry of seed, mulch, and tackifier sprayed over prepped soil that holds moisture better than dry seed and costs less than sod, which makes it a sensible option for larger open areas and moderate slopes where sod would get expensive.
Get a free landscape estimateWhere new lawns fail or succeed: the base work
Whichever route fits, the base work is the same and it's where lawns actually fail or succeed on our expansive soil: we grade to slope water away from the house, till compost into the top 6 inches so roots have something to grab besides raw clay, and set a realistic watering schedule for the first season. We won't promise a specific green-up date or guarantee first-year plant survival, because nobody honest can on Front Range clay, but we will tell you straight which method fits your lot before you spend a dollar. And if a living lawn isn't the goal, our artificial turf service covers low-water lawns, dog runs, and putting greens that skip the water bill entirely. Not sure which way to go? Call (303) 915-8649 or request a free on-site quote and we'll walk your grade and drainage first.
Get a free landscape estimateMaterials we use
Spec by name on every estimate. No allowance line items.
How a landscaping project actually runs
Owner walk & written scope
The owner walks the property, measures, and asks what isn't working. You get a written scope with material specs by name — no allowance line items.
Design & selections
Layouts, material samples, and finish options reviewed in your space. Included in the project, not billed separately.
Permits & site prep
We pull the permit when one is required, protect existing surfaces, and prep the site. Surprises documented in writing before any change order.
Build with one crew
Same crew start to finish. Daily clean-up, dust control where needed, and a foreman you can text directly.
Walk-through & punch list
Written punch list signed by you. We don't take final payment until you sign off the walkthrough.
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Get a free landscape estimateWhat moves the price on a landscape
Landscaping pricing scales with square footage but the real drivers are grading, drainage, and plant size.
- $Grading & drainage
Sloped lots and lots with standing water need re-grading and drainage — usually a full extra day of skid-steer time.
- $Sod vs. xeriscape
Laying fresh-cut sod for an instant lawn is cheaper to install but costs more long-term in water and mowing. Rock and mulch xeriscape costs more up front, less every month after.
- $Plant size
1-gallon perennials vs. 5-gallon shrubs vs. B&B trees spans a 5x range. Bigger plants establish faster but cost more.
- $Hardscape integration
Edging, borders, dry creek beds, and boulder placement add design time and material.
Free design consultation included on every full-yard renovation.
Recent landscaping projects
Real homes, real scope, real craftsmanship — a snapshot of work delivered across the Denver metro.
Landscaping across the Denver metro
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you handle grading and drainage?+
Yes — every landscape job starts with grading. We slope away from the foundation and add drainage tile or French drains where the lot needs it.
What about HOA approval?+
We've worked with most of the Adams County HOAs and can build the rendering and plant list they need for approval.
When's the best time to install?+
Spring (April–May) and fall (September–October) are ideal for plantings. Hardscape can go in any time the ground isn't frozen.
Do you offer maintenance?+
We don't run a weekly maintenance crew, but we'll come back for spring clean-ups, mulch top-offs, and plant replacements.
Do you aerate and overseed?+
Yes. Core aeration to break up our compacted Adams County clay, then an overseed with a cool-season bluegrass or turf-type fescue blend dropped right into the fresh holes for good soil contact. We time it for the spring or early-fall growth window, not the July heat, and get you on an establishment watering schedule. If your lawn is only thin and patchy rather than dead, aeration and overseed is usually the smarter spend than a full re-sod, and we'll tell you that on-site.
What is hydroseeding and does it work here?+
Hydroseeding sprays a slurry of seed, mulch, and tackifier over prepped soil. It holds moisture better than dry seed and costs less than sod, so it's a sensible option for larger open areas and moderate slopes. It works on the Front Range when the base prep is right: grade sloped away from the house and compost tilled into the top 6 inches so roots aren't fighting raw clay. For fast cover or steeper slopes we usually still recommend sod, and we'll walk your grade and tell you straight which method fits before you spend a dollar.
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One foreman, one written price, one schedule. Free on-site estimate from the owner.